driving like a Frenchman

Tim often maintains that I drive like a Frenchman while on London roads - note, Frenchman. Every culture has its own version of what it means to be 'macho'; us Brits down pints to prove we're hard, Americans watch sports, Italians flirt with their mates' girlfriends, but the French...they can seem a little 'girly' to us, what with their skinny bodies, manbags, kissing on cheeks, constant grooming and aversion to physical exercise (unless it's petanque)...or as the stereotype would have you believe!

But on the road, wow, it's as if they've been given a shot of testosterone as soon as they park their bums in the driving seat.  They'll weave in and out of lanes, aggressively honk their horns with abandon if you so much as hesitate at a red light and play their music loud.  Really loud.  Frankly I wasn't surprised I heard so many ambulance sirens during my stay.

Hence the prospect of driving...on the other side of the road...on the autoroute...right into Germany...on the autobahn...with no speed limits...with all the crazy Frenchmen...was utterly terrifying.

So of course I had to give it a go.  I'd driven in the States with all the mental traffic of Los Angeles, how bad could it be?  We were en route to Europa Park in Germany (just across the border, a mere 40 minute drive away).  So with no sat-nav, with a non-driver in the front seat with me we set off in a Toyota Previa (which felt a bit like steering a cruise ship, bearing in mind I usually drive a zippy Ford KA).

Getting the hang of turning right at a roundabout was challenging, leading to a few casual near death experiences along the way but hey, grasped it in the end!  What I found most interesting was the sharp contrast between the manic, aggressive French driver and the obedient, reliable German one.  Every other car was a Mercedes Benz, Audi or BMW - but instead of the show-off Jeremy Clarkson wannabes you encounter on any British motorway who thinks driving one magically transforms him into the Stig on a racing track - the German drivers never tailgated, nor sped up rapidly, nor undertook.  They had all the diligence and respect as a learner driver on test day - but with confidence.  It was actually a really lovely experience, not once did I feel hurried up or harassed.  Gotta love sensible Germans!

summer in Strasbourg

I'm sitting in the sweltering heat as I type this.  Although in terms of proximity to the equator I am only slightly south of London it feels like the Amazon rainforest - the kind of sticky heat where your skin is constantly glazed with a moist film and peeling yourself off leather upholstery is a small torture.

I've arrived in the midst of a heatwave, staying with my boyfriend Tim at his family home in Strasbourg in the Alsace region of France.  He was born in America but raised here from the age of six months, and it gives me great pleasure to tell people I'm dating an Alsatian :P

Strasbourg is one of those European cities most people have heard of but - 'Oh, isn't that in Germany/Austria?'. It is in fact a French city on the German border.  As a result of various historical conquests and subsequent volleying back and forth between French and German rule, it's an interesting blend of both cultures but a strong Alsatian identity prevails (mostly in the older generation but it's not unheard of to hear the Alsatian language spoken in some of the more traditional pubs).  There are trilingual signs in some places!

So today I was shown around by my own native tour guide.  The magic is of course, lost on Tim but to my eyes it was simply stunning.  The city itself is probably the quaintest I've ever encountered - in fact it's not like a city at all. Apart from the sleek modern tram snaking its way around it's the 'provincial town' straight out of Disney's Beauty and the Beast - cutesy old timbered buildings, cobbled streets and pretty squares presided over by the imposing, gothic Strasbourg Cathedral.  I felt I'd stepped back to yesteryear...could almost kid myself I could hear the clip clop of a horse-drawn cart...

'Little town...it's a quiet village...'

We stopped for lunch overlooking one of the many canals, where 'bateaux-mouches' constantly ferry tourists up and down.  On the menu was typical Alsatian fare - a fusion of Francais and Deutsch - so you've got the choucroute (sauerkraut) and pork dumplings (not my cup of tea) but also onglets de boeuf and steak-hache.  All a bit heavy for me on such a warm day, so I opted for a 'salade gourmande' and a glass of sweet Muscat wine.  The real culinary treat came later when we went to Tim's favourite restaurant, one that caters specifically to 'tartes flambees'. 
 

These are a delicious Alsatian version of pizza - but better.  The base is as thin as a crepe, covered in all the naughtiest things you can think of - cream, lardons, onions and cheese.  It's served on a big wooden board on the side of the table, you're then expected to slice it and share between your fellow diners.  Inevitably the entire thing is gone in about 30 seconds, and the waiter will continue to bring more and more until you eventually say 'Stop! I have had enough! I am satisfied!'  Right on cue, the dessert menu arrives and...suddenly you realise you could make a teeny bit of room somewhere in your stomach...

Needless to say, I walked out of there feeling like a blimp.  Or a Michelin man.  But by God, it was gastronomic heaven.

Tomorrow I've got my first go at driving in France...I fully expect to be writing my next post from la clinique...(which, by the by, is a hospital, not a place to buy makeup as I wrongly and hilariously thought on arrival...the shame!)

an onboard beauty regime

It doesn't take a genius to figure out that plane air is not good for your skin.  Re-circulated, air conditioned and dry, it's a nightmare - I used to constantly deal with tightness and chapped lips.  However, during my time as crew I've developed a fabulous on board beauty regime to keep my skin looking glowing despite constant exposure to the harsh, dry conditions.  It works best during a night flight but can apply to day flights too.

1. Keep hydrated

Above all else, the greatest nugget of advice I can give is the obvious one - staying hydrated in the air is paramount.  I'd always advise bringing a litre or two on with you (buy it at the airport after security) and taking sips periodically.  Unfortunately, although you may get a little bottle with your meal and a cup now and again, you definitely won't get enough on board to keep you sufficiently hydrated, unless you hang out in the galley asking for refills every five minutes!  In line with this, although all the free booze is a tempting prospect, keep the alcohol to a minimum - not only will it dehydrate you further, but there is simply nothing worse than feeling hungover on board an aircraft, especially when disembarking.

2. Bring your own food

Everyone knows plane food isn't healthy.  It's full of cheap ingredients for mass production, preservatives and fat and sugar to appeal to the general public.  Even as a crew member I tend to bring my own salads with me as after a few weeks of plane food I could feel my waistline increasing and my skin was constantly breaking out.  Sugar affects your hormones and wreaks havoc on your skin, so to treat it kindly, bring your own food on board.  Before your trip, cut up fresh vegetables to nibble on and bring bite size fruit (I love carrots, celery and grapes), perhaps prepare a salad with chicken or tuna.  If it is a night flight, eat dinner in the airport beforehand, allowing maximum time for rest. Even though a ten hour flight might sound like a long time, your body will favour light meals over heavy ones. It's best to eat a good meal when you arrive at your destination.

3. Have a nap

There's a reason it's called 'beauty sleep' - your body regenerates its cells while you're in peaceful slumber, and when you don't get enough it shows in your skin.  I'm forced to wake up from crew rest sometimes with terrible black circles beneath my watery red eyes - bleugh!  Even a twenty minute power nap will be beneficial, but ideally try to get four hours (one REM sleep cycle).  Attempt to get onto the same time zone as your destination if possible - a nap on board will help you push on until the evening if your flight arrives during the day.  If you find it difficult, read my article on 'How to sleep and beat jet lag' to help you.

4. My beauty regime

Now, I like to create my own little 'travel spa kit' in my liquids bag consisting of make up remover; facial cleanser; rich moisturiser; light moisturiser; tinted moisturiser; toothpaste and lavender essential oil.  I make sure I have a toothbrush, lip balm and disposable flannel too (but separate from the liquids bag).



I either eat before I board the plane or have my salad soon after take off to maximise my rest.  Then, I will change into comfortable clothes if I've had to formally dress to board and make sure I have a blanket and socks to keep me warm and eyeshades.  Sometimes I will ask the crew to fill up my travel hot water bottle if I'm feeling particularly chilly.  Heading to the loo, I'll have a last toilet stop before bed, remove my make up and cleanse my face.  Sometimes I will warm a flannel to open my pores and cleanse to remove all impurities from the day before splashing my face with cool water to close the pores again.  Then I will apply lip balm and a rich moisturiser to protect my delicate facial skin as I sleep - I love Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream.  (It feels a little thick and Vaseline-like when you first smooth it on, but it sinks into your skin and hours later feels so soft and protected from the elements!  After working a night flight I will come home, remove all make up and apply it to my skin for the rest of the day.)  After brushing my teeth and flossing I feel ready for bed, which makes it so much easier to sleep.

I usually try to sleep for the remainder of the flight and set an alarm for around 50 minutes to landing, at which point I will drink a glass of water to rehydrate myself and have one last toilet stop (never do this at 40 minutes to landing, as everyone and his dog are using the bathrooms at this point!)  While in the loo I'll splash my face with cold water and remoisturise, applying a little light make up so I don't look so terrible upon disembarking!  Of course, you could always do the Hollywood trick and wear giant shades through the terminal...

top ten things to do in...Vancouver

Vancouver is often overlooked as a holiday destination as it's not particularly balmy or beachy - most holidaymakers fly in for skiing on Whistler and that's about it.  Nevertheless it's a clean city with beautiful views and friendly residents.  Plus, there are so many things to see and do very cheaply - even free (especially if you're cabin crew).  Here are my top ten:

1. Cycle around Stanley Park

On a sunny day its a perfect way to spend the afternoon.  There's a designated cycle path running around the seawall with some gorgeous vistas of Grouse Mountain and Mount Seymour.  It'll take you under the iconic Lions Gate Bridge (below).

It's an easy ride on flat terrain and will only take you a couple of hours.  You'll see entire families out cycling (Canadians love the outdoors).

Stop and have an ice cream and a sunbathe on English Bay Beach before hopping back on your bike.


2. Visit the Vancouver Aquarium

Watch the dolphins show off their routines, seal lions lazily stretching out on the rocks and penguins pottering about.  There's lots of deep-sea marine life viewing and an excellent 4D film narrated by David Attenborough about the life of wild salmon that tickles all five senses (you do get wet...)  Best of all, if you're crew it's free - they simply ask you for an optional donation of a loony or a toony (that's one or two Canadian dollars).

3. Savour fresh British Columbian salmon

Although most supermarkets supply excellent quality salmon nowadays, there's simply nothing like freshly caught fish.  For any salmon aficionado, this is the creme de la creme.  I highly recommend the Sand Bar on Granville Island (I had the spring salmon with rice and seasonal vegetables).  Pair with a Gehringer Brothers Pinot Noir (also local - from a vineyard in Okanagan) for a truly Canadian dining experience.

4. Browse the Granville Island market

This market is huge, selling fresh produce, arts and crafts - you name it, they'll have it.  I went at Christmas time and bought the most amazing, richly aromatic coffee.  Nothing in Sainsbury's has come close!  Check out Gandharva Loka while you're there, it's a weird and wonderful musical instrument shop that doesn't sell your run of the mill guitars or keyboards - rather; gongs, chimes, singing bowls, 'sound cradles' (essentially a chair/harp hybrid) and 'tongue drums'.

5. Wobble across the Capilano Suspension Bridge

If you're airline crew this is free (including the bus that takes you there, you just turn up at the bus stop at Canada Place and hop on).  It sways in the breeze, gently swinging as you step on it - quite a heart stopping experience as you realize you're a dizzying 70 metres above the Capilano River running below.  There are many smaller bridges connecting together around the park, and a death-defying 'cliff walk' - with a perspex floor, the only way to look is down...

6. Ski on Grouse Mountain

Now I'm not much of an avid skiier, but Grouse Mountain is practically down the road (and much cheaper than Whistler).  There are baby slopes for rookies like me, and while you're climbing up on the ski lift the panoramas are breathtaking.  If you're lucky you might see a bear or two in the distance...

7. Take a sea-plane ride to Victoria

For anyone who loves aviation, this is a must.  You'll enjoy a scenic route over to Victoria (the lush green capital of British Columbia), and land on the water in a graceful, gliding motion like a swan - it's quite something. Unfortunately sea-plane tickets can be quite expensive, however if you turn up last minute you can get discounted seats on flights already booked by full-fare paying customers - especially if you're crew.  The terminal is located at Vancouver Harbour.

8. Explore historical Gastown

Gastown is a National Historic Site of Canada, the rather flamboyant district named after 'Gassy' Jack Deighton - a Yorkshire seaman who opened the first saloon here in 1867.  Here you'll find art galleries, crazy fashion boutiques and the usual tourist souvenir shops (I come here to buy moose magnets!).  There's a lovely little maple syrup shop where you can sample before you buy (I believe it's called 'Canadian Maple Delights').  Don't forget to check out the famous steam powered clock (pictured below, but it's difficult to see the steam).

While you're in the area, take a short walk towards Downtown and pop in for a gelato at Bella Gelateria - award-winning ice cream with some deliciously interesting combinations (chocolate with bacon pieces, anyone?)

9. Shop on Robson Street

On a Saturday afternoon Robson Street is a bustling thoroughfare of the well-heeled Vancouverites.  Of course I'm loathe to browsing the designer shops, pretending I could afford it all - don't we all - but there are a number of interesting fashion boutiques and affordable high-street chains.  However, my favourite thing to do is to sit on a cafe terrace, order a cappuccino and watch the world go by.

10.  Watch a Canucks game

I'd say this is the ultimate Canadian experience - although, alas, one I haven't had quite yet.  As its national sport, watching a fast-paced, emotionally fuelled game of ice-hockey in Canada is bound to be exciting.  The Vancouver Canucks' home rink is Rogers Arena, where ticket prices can range from $65-$300.  Definitely planning this for my next trip...watch this space!

springtime in Lisbon

I never thought Lisbon would be such a place of aesthetic delight - you think of Portugal and everyone raves about the Algarve or Porto.  Before my arrival I asssumed it would be a typical grey, corporate capital city.  However, as I wandered around I was taken aback at the explosion of colours, from the vibrant to the muted; the deep crimson of the strawberries sold on street stalls, the terracotta roofs, the faded yellowing walls.  Every building, from the majestic to the ramshackle were charming in that quaint Mediterranean way. I felt such a city needs few words, as the photos do all the talking:

Buying strawberries and cherries from a street vendor.

Terracotta roofs as seen from the Elevador Santa Justa (a strange, Victorian era urban lift).

Enjoying a coffee and a 'pastel de nata' - egg custard tarts Portuguese style!

The imposing Rossio Railway Station

A crumbling shop front that would look rather sorry for itself in Britain evokes a sense of nostalgia here.

Note the mosaic street - a little detail that makes this place so enchanting.

The River Tagus

Venice Beach

Thought I'd write a little about a recent stop at Venice Beach.  It's worth a visit if you're in the vicinity - but try to avoid the 'tourist' times, i.e. June to August.  Parking nearby is relatively cheap, $10 for a few hours if I recall.

The beach itself is picturesque.  A huge expanse of soft, yellow sand leads to gently breaking waves on the azure horizon.  Nevertheless, contrary to what I expected it was rather quiet even though the day was hot.  I assume on weekends it becomes busy, but it seems as if tourists are more interested in the boardwalk than the beach.

The Venice Beach boardwalk is where the oddballs come to convene; a smorgasbord of hippies, artists, street performers, surfers and tourists.  Street artists display caricatures and henna tattoos.  Shabby shops sell everything from flip flops and sunglasses to drug paraphernalia and funny (and some offensive!) T-shirts.  A rastafarian man rollerblades along whilst shredding rapidly on a portable electric guitar in a Bob Marley-esque fashion.  A dog lies on its back in the sun, writhing in dollar bills like a girl in a rap video, flanked by jokey signs for 'Free Belly Rubs' and requesting tips...

It's sheer madness all the way, but it's a sight to see.  There's a sense of acceptance here, no matter how strange you are - in fact the stranger the better.  Individuality seems to be the order of the day. You'll pass the famed outside weights gym, 'Muscle Beach' - although when I took a cheeky look I was disappointed to find no tanned young things pumping iron...more, leathery granddads...

It's not somewhere I'd spend an entire afternoon, as once you've marvelled at the bizarre world that is the Venice Beach promenade you realise after walking a mile or so, that it's the same old stuff.  Nevertheless I'd stay for the lovely beach.

a chic traveller's best friend

Photo credit to http://royalshake.deviantart.com

Here's something I noticed on my recent trip to Paris - the It-Bag, if you like, isn't the Chanel 2.55.  Modern Parisiennes are practical women that never compromise style, and the favoured handbag that caters to both pragmatism and aesthetic quality is the Longchamp 'Le Pliage', which I saw dangling off many a lithe arm or tucked under a bistro table.  Key to the bag's popularity is that it is foldable.  Longchamp are definitely onto something - it's a sturdy yet spacious tote bag that when folded takes up as much space as a clutch! They are available in a variety of sizes, colours and materials (I have olive green, navy, brown and white).  Simply perfect for taking on short trips when you only want to take a dinky carry-on bag and maximising space is key, they are my saving grace on European stopovers.  No wonder the ladies of Paris are going gaga for practical chic.

View the current crop of Longchamp 'Le Pliage' bags here.

live like a local: Los Angeles

One of the more glamorous places I often visit on my travels is Los Angeles.  Even as we begin boarding the plane in London there's excitement in the air, as celebrities are often flying between the two major world cities.  It's quite a surreal moment once a familiar face steps on board.  

The weather is nearly always balmy, and as we arrive at our hotel it's customary for the crew to head down to the beach and relax after the long flight, drinking a few gin and tonics and basking in the glow of sunset.  At this point we discuss 'The Plan' for the next day.  Some like to simply rest and sunbathe, others like to take advantage of the exchange rate and shop at the bargain stores.  However, most of the time, I like to experience LA like a local.  And by that, I mean renting a car.

Sunset at Redondo Beach

With an area spanning 469 square miles, Los Angeles County was designed with cars in mind, with an extensive network of highways and freeways connecting the cities within it.  A metro and bus network exists, but despite the cheap day passes it is slow, shabby and highly restrictive.  A friend and I hopped on once from Long Beach to Hollywood Highland.  We were advised by the concierge of the hotel to never travel alone, keep all valuables hidden from view and to keep inconspicuous.  She recommended that we sit in the front carriage closest to the driver to discourage attacks.  

Nevertheless, although never once directly threatened it was definitely an 'experience' to say the least.  We were subjected to travellers arguing with each other on board as the train rumbled on, unwarranted death stares from fellow passengers, a homeless man constantly begging for money, police cars and gunshots as we pulled up at the notorious Compton - something literally out of an episode of COPS.  An experience, but not one I'd like to repeat!  It quickly occurred to me that, although a cruel and unfair truth, it seemed as if the general population riding the metro were the poor or marginalised of LA society.  We did end up seeing Hollywood Boulevard and it is possible to see the sights via metro, but not worth it.

When you consider the length of individual streets (for example, Sunset Boulevard is 35km; Hollywood Boulevard 26km), it makes sense to hire a car and drive.  I was terrified of driving at first - those huge cars, the notorious LA traffic, the crazy road rules... But in all honesty, with automatic cars, virtually straight roads and no roundabouts it's a good deal easier than British roads.  If I can do it, so can you. 

Key points to driving on American roads:

1. Drive on the right side of the road

2. At a crossroad junction you can turn right on a red light, as long as there is no sign forbidding it.  Make sure there are no cars coming from the left before turning at the junction, and remember that pedestrians have right of way.

3. When turning left, get into the left lane (if it exists) and indicate.  You may have to wait for cars to pass on the other side of the road before turning at the junction.

4. When you see a STOP sign you MUST stop, even if there are clearly no cars.  Cars proceed in the order that they arrived and stopped at the junction.  If you forget, tentatively ease forward when you think it is your turn until it is clear you are OK to pass.  Take it easy!

5. On the freeway:

a) exits can arise in any of the lanes.  Most of the time they are on the right.  Unlike British motorways there are no designated exits with countdown markers and they can come up quickly, so keep your wits about you.  A GPS system will help.

b) There is no designated 'inside' or 'outside' lane, and hence overtaking can occur in any lane.  Be careful.

c) Take care not to drive in the carpool lane if you are alone in the car, especially during rush hour.  Usually the sign will indicate which times the carpool lane is in operation.

Car hire services are cheap, especially if you book in advance and car share.  For a ballpark figure, we hired a 7-seater minivan from Avis (pictured below).  Split between 7 of us the price was $15 each for 24 hours.  Petrol, or 'gas' is ridiculously cheap and most cars have fantastic fuel economy.  I doubt you will spend more than $20 for a day of sight seeing (say, about four hours driving).

A very comfortable 7 person minivan

Armed with a city map, a GPS system and a full tank of gas, you're ready to take on the open road.  I'll be posting about my road trip around LA next, and recommend the best places to go!  Happy driving.

Cruising along Mulholland Drive

never be without a spritz of Chanel ever again...

I recently bought a refillable perfume capsule by Travalo. Every crewmember (male and female might I add) seems to have one in their liquid-restrictions bag - it's simply essential for the chic traveller and flight attendant alike.  Absolutely perfect to free up space, prevent spillages and keep your perfume bottle at home where it stays clean and unsullied by the contents of your handbag!

You can buy them at a discount in the High Life shop onboard, or at www.travalo.com.

a new year's resolution: decluttering

So now the hangover has died down, the Christmas bloat has subsided and we're all back to work, it's time for a spring clean, a new start.

I have three New Year's Resolutions, but I don't feel I can put plans into action until I feel organised in my life. I'm trying to declutter everything in my life right now, as I can't be in a chic mindset if I'm in a mess. When you're constantly on-the-go it's easy to let things build up, and I must admit when I get home from a long haul flight the last thing I want to do is clear out all my bags, as most things I will simply use on the next trip anyway - most of the time I remove any dirty washing, replenish underwear and a new outfit and I'm good to go for the next trip.

However this means I've got countless scraps of paper in my work handbag (we do pick up a surprising amount of paperwork as cabin crew - updated manual notices, briefing sheets, inflight retail receipts, hotel information sheets etc) and I feel my travel case has become disorganised. So I am going to have a complete overhaul; the new year is a perfect place to start. I've bought a brand new vanity case to organise my toiletries better and plan to post soon about packing the perfect case so everything is accessible, and easy to pack and unpack in a hurry (perfect for frequent fliers or fellow cabin crew). Of course this will be a new learning experience for me too, and I'd love to hear of any top tips from you.