Tim often maintains that I drive like a Frenchman while on London roads - note, Frenchman. Every culture has its own version of what it means to be 'macho'; us Brits down pints to prove we're hard, Americans watch sports, Italians flirt with their mates' girlfriends, but the French...they can seem a little 'girly' to us, what with their skinny bodies, manbags, kissing on cheeks, constant grooming and aversion to physical exercise (unless it's petanque)...or as the stereotype would have you believe!
But on the road, wow, it's as if they've been given a shot of testosterone as soon as they park their bums in the driving seat. They'll weave in and out of lanes, aggressively honk their horns with abandon if you so much as hesitate at a red light and play their music loud. Really loud. Frankly I wasn't surprised I heard so many ambulance sirens during my stay.
Hence the prospect of driving...on the other side of the road...on the autoroute...right into Germany...on the autobahn...with no speed limits...with all the crazy Frenchmen...was utterly terrifying.
So of course I had to give it a go. I'd driven in the States with all the mental traffic of Los Angeles, how bad could it be? We were en route to Europa Park in Germany (just across the border, a mere 40 minute drive away). So with no sat-nav, with a non-driver in the front seat with me we set off in a Toyota Previa (which felt a bit like steering a cruise ship, bearing in mind I usually drive a zippy Ford KA).
Getting the hang of turning right at a roundabout was challenging, leading to a few casual near death experiences along the way but hey, grasped it in the end! What I found most interesting was the sharp contrast between the manic, aggressive French driver and the obedient, reliable German one. Every other car was a Mercedes Benz, Audi or BMW - but instead of the show-off Jeremy Clarkson wannabes you encounter on any British motorway who thinks driving one magically transforms him into the Stig on a racing track - the German drivers never tailgated, nor sped up rapidly, nor undertook. They had all the diligence and respect as a learner driver on test day - but with confidence. It was actually a really lovely experience, not once did I feel hurried up or harassed. Gotta love sensible Germans!
A blog about travel, fashion and beauty - and always staying chic.
Sunday 23 June 2013
Friday 21 June 2013
summer in Strasbourg
I'm sitting in the sweltering heat as I type this. Although in terms of proximity to the equator I am only slightly south of London it feels like the Amazon rainforest - the kind of sticky heat where your skin is constantly glazed with a moist film and peeling yourself off leather upholstery is a small torture.
I've arrived in the midst of a heatwave, staying with my boyfriend Tim at his family home in Strasbourg in the Alsace region of France. He was born in America but raised here from the age of six months, and it gives me great pleasure to tell people I'm dating an Alsatian :P
Strasbourg is one of those European cities most people have heard of but - 'Oh, isn't that in Germany/Austria?'. It is in fact a French city on the German border. As a result of various historical conquests and subsequent volleying back and forth between French and German rule, it's an interesting blend of both cultures but a strong Alsatian identity prevails (mostly in the older generation but it's not unheard of to hear the Alsatian language spoken in some of the more traditional pubs). There are trilingual signs in some places!
So today I was shown around by my own native tour guide. The magic is of course, lost on Tim but to my eyes it was simply stunning. The city itself is probably the quaintest I've ever encountered - in fact it's not like a city at all. Apart from the sleek modern tram snaking its way around it's the 'provincial town' straight out of Disney's Beauty and the Beast - cutesy old timbered buildings, cobbled streets and pretty squares presided over by the imposing, gothic Strasbourg Cathedral. I felt I'd stepped back to yesteryear...could almost kid myself I could hear the clip clop of a horse-drawn cart...
'Little town...it's a quiet village...'
We stopped for lunch overlooking one of the many canals, where 'bateaux-mouches' constantly ferry tourists up and down. On the menu was typical Alsatian fare - a fusion of Francais and Deutsch - so you've got the choucroute (sauerkraut) and pork dumplings (not my cup of tea) but also onglets de boeuf and steak-hache. All a bit heavy for me on such a warm day, so I opted for a 'salade gourmande' and a glass of sweet Muscat wine. The real culinary treat came later when we went to Tim's favourite restaurant, one that caters specifically to 'tartes flambees'.
These are a delicious Alsatian version of pizza - but better. The base is as thin as a crepe, covered in all the naughtiest things you can think of - cream, lardons, onions and cheese. It's served on a big wooden board on the side of the table, you're then expected to slice it and share between your fellow diners. Inevitably the entire thing is gone in about 30 seconds, and the waiter will continue to bring more and more until you eventually say 'Stop! I have had enough! I am satisfied!' Right on cue, the dessert menu arrives and...suddenly you realise you could make a teeny bit of room somewhere in your stomach...
Needless to say, I walked out of there feeling like a blimp. Or a Michelin man. But by God, it was gastronomic heaven.
Tomorrow I've got my first go at driving in France...I fully expect to be writing my next post from la clinique...(which, by the by, is a hospital, not a place to buy makeup as I wrongly and hilariously thought on arrival...the shame!)
Tuesday 30 April 2013
an onboard beauty regime
It doesn't take a genius to figure out that plane air is not good for your skin. Re-circulated, air conditioned and dry, it's a nightmare - I used to constantly deal with tightness and chapped lips. However, during my time as crew I've developed a fabulous on board beauty regime to keep my skin looking glowing despite constant exposure to the harsh, dry conditions. It works best during a night flight but can apply to day flights too.
1. Keep hydrated
Above all else, the greatest nugget of advice I can give is the obvious one - staying hydrated in the air is paramount. I'd always advise bringing a litre or two on with you (buy it at the airport after security) and taking sips periodically. Unfortunately, although you may get a little bottle with your meal and a cup now and again, you definitely won't get enough on board to keep you sufficiently hydrated, unless you hang out in the galley asking for refills every five minutes! In line with this, although all the free booze is a tempting prospect, keep the alcohol to a minimum - not only will it dehydrate you further, but there is simply nothing worse than feeling hungover on board an aircraft, especially when disembarking.
2. Bring your own food
Everyone knows plane food isn't healthy. It's full of cheap ingredients for mass production, preservatives and fat and sugar to appeal to the general public. Even as a crew member I tend to bring my own salads with me as after a few weeks of plane food I could feel my waistline increasing and my skin was constantly breaking out. Sugar affects your hormones and wreaks havoc on your skin, so to treat it kindly, bring your own food on board. Before your trip, cut up fresh vegetables to nibble on and bring bite size fruit (I love carrots, celery and grapes), perhaps prepare a salad with chicken or tuna. If it is a night flight, eat dinner in the airport beforehand, allowing maximum time for rest. Even though a ten hour flight might sound like a long time, your body will favour light meals over heavy ones. It's best to eat a good meal when you arrive at your destination.
3. Have a nap
There's a reason it's called 'beauty sleep' - your body regenerates its cells while you're in peaceful slumber, and when you don't get enough it shows in your skin. I'm forced to wake up from crew rest sometimes with terrible black circles beneath my watery red eyes - bleugh! Even a twenty minute power nap will be beneficial, but ideally try to get four hours (one REM sleep cycle). Attempt to get onto the same time zone as your destination if possible - a nap on board will help you push on until the evening if your flight arrives during the day. If you find it difficult, read my article on 'How to sleep and beat jet lag' to help you.
4. My beauty regime
Now, I like to create my own little 'travel spa kit' in my liquids bag consisting of make up remover; facial cleanser; rich moisturiser; light moisturiser; tinted moisturiser; toothpaste and lavender essential oil. I make sure I have a toothbrush, lip balm and disposable flannel too (but separate from the liquids bag).
I either eat before I board the plane or have my salad soon after take off to maximise my rest. Then, I will change into comfortable clothes if I've had to formally dress to board and make sure I have a blanket and socks to keep me warm and eyeshades. Sometimes I will ask the crew to fill up my travel hot water bottle if I'm feeling particularly chilly. Heading to the loo, I'll have a last toilet stop before bed, remove my make up and cleanse my face. Sometimes I will warm a flannel to open my pores and cleanse to remove all impurities from the day before splashing my face with cool water to close the pores again. Then I will apply lip balm and a rich moisturiser to protect my delicate facial skin as I sleep - I love Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream. (It feels a little thick and Vaseline-like when you first smooth it on, but it sinks into your skin and hours later feels so soft and protected from the elements! After working a night flight I will come home, remove all make up and apply it to my skin for the rest of the day.) After brushing my teeth and flossing I feel ready for bed, which makes it so much easier to sleep.
I usually try to sleep for the remainder of the flight and set an alarm for around 50 minutes to landing, at which point I will drink a glass of water to rehydrate myself and have one last toilet stop (never do this at 40 minutes to landing, as everyone and his dog are using the bathrooms at this point!) While in the loo I'll splash my face with cold water and remoisturise, applying a little light make up so I don't look so terrible upon disembarking! Of course, you could always do the Hollywood trick and wear giant shades through the terminal...
1. Keep hydrated
Above all else, the greatest nugget of advice I can give is the obvious one - staying hydrated in the air is paramount. I'd always advise bringing a litre or two on with you (buy it at the airport after security) and taking sips periodically. Unfortunately, although you may get a little bottle with your meal and a cup now and again, you definitely won't get enough on board to keep you sufficiently hydrated, unless you hang out in the galley asking for refills every five minutes! In line with this, although all the free booze is a tempting prospect, keep the alcohol to a minimum - not only will it dehydrate you further, but there is simply nothing worse than feeling hungover on board an aircraft, especially when disembarking.
2. Bring your own food
Everyone knows plane food isn't healthy. It's full of cheap ingredients for mass production, preservatives and fat and sugar to appeal to the general public. Even as a crew member I tend to bring my own salads with me as after a few weeks of plane food I could feel my waistline increasing and my skin was constantly breaking out. Sugar affects your hormones and wreaks havoc on your skin, so to treat it kindly, bring your own food on board. Before your trip, cut up fresh vegetables to nibble on and bring bite size fruit (I love carrots, celery and grapes), perhaps prepare a salad with chicken or tuna. If it is a night flight, eat dinner in the airport beforehand, allowing maximum time for rest. Even though a ten hour flight might sound like a long time, your body will favour light meals over heavy ones. It's best to eat a good meal when you arrive at your destination.
3. Have a nap
There's a reason it's called 'beauty sleep' - your body regenerates its cells while you're in peaceful slumber, and when you don't get enough it shows in your skin. I'm forced to wake up from crew rest sometimes with terrible black circles beneath my watery red eyes - bleugh! Even a twenty minute power nap will be beneficial, but ideally try to get four hours (one REM sleep cycle). Attempt to get onto the same time zone as your destination if possible - a nap on board will help you push on until the evening if your flight arrives during the day. If you find it difficult, read my article on 'How to sleep and beat jet lag' to help you.
4. My beauty regime
Now, I like to create my own little 'travel spa kit' in my liquids bag consisting of make up remover; facial cleanser; rich moisturiser; light moisturiser; tinted moisturiser; toothpaste and lavender essential oil. I make sure I have a toothbrush, lip balm and disposable flannel too (but separate from the liquids bag).
I either eat before I board the plane or have my salad soon after take off to maximise my rest. Then, I will change into comfortable clothes if I've had to formally dress to board and make sure I have a blanket and socks to keep me warm and eyeshades. Sometimes I will ask the crew to fill up my travel hot water bottle if I'm feeling particularly chilly. Heading to the loo, I'll have a last toilet stop before bed, remove my make up and cleanse my face. Sometimes I will warm a flannel to open my pores and cleanse to remove all impurities from the day before splashing my face with cool water to close the pores again. Then I will apply lip balm and a rich moisturiser to protect my delicate facial skin as I sleep - I love Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream. (It feels a little thick and Vaseline-like when you first smooth it on, but it sinks into your skin and hours later feels so soft and protected from the elements! After working a night flight I will come home, remove all make up and apply it to my skin for the rest of the day.) After brushing my teeth and flossing I feel ready for bed, which makes it so much easier to sleep.
I usually try to sleep for the remainder of the flight and set an alarm for around 50 minutes to landing, at which point I will drink a glass of water to rehydrate myself and have one last toilet stop (never do this at 40 minutes to landing, as everyone and his dog are using the bathrooms at this point!) While in the loo I'll splash my face with cold water and remoisturise, applying a little light make up so I don't look so terrible upon disembarking! Of course, you could always do the Hollywood trick and wear giant shades through the terminal...
Monday 22 April 2013
top ten things to do in...Vancouver
Vancouver is often overlooked as a holiday destination as it's not particularly balmy or beachy - most holidaymakers fly in for skiing on Whistler and that's about it. Nevertheless it's a clean city with beautiful views and friendly residents. Plus, there are so many things to see and do very cheaply - even free (especially if you're cabin crew). Here are my top ten:
1. Cycle around Stanley Park
On a sunny day its a perfect way to spend the afternoon. There's a designated cycle path running around the seawall with some gorgeous vistas of Grouse Mountain and Mount Seymour. It'll take you under the iconic Lions Gate Bridge (below).
It's an easy ride on flat terrain and will only take you a couple of hours. You'll see entire families out cycling (Canadians love the outdoors).
Stop and have an ice cream and a sunbathe on English Bay Beach before hopping back on your bike.
2. Visit the Vancouver Aquarium
Watch the dolphins show off their routines, seal lions lazily stretching out on the rocks and penguins pottering about. There's lots of deep-sea marine life viewing and an excellent 4D film narrated by David Attenborough about the life of wild salmon that tickles all five senses (you do get wet...) Best of all, if you're crew it's free - they simply ask you for an optional donation of a loony or a toony (that's one or two Canadian dollars).
3. Savour fresh British Columbian salmon
Although most supermarkets supply excellent quality salmon nowadays, there's simply nothing like freshly caught fish. For any salmon aficionado, this is the creme de la creme. I highly recommend the Sand Bar on Granville Island (I had the spring salmon with rice and seasonal vegetables). Pair with a Gehringer Brothers Pinot Noir (also local - from a vineyard in Okanagan) for a truly Canadian dining experience.
4. Browse the Granville Island market
This market is huge, selling fresh produce, arts and crafts - you name it, they'll have it. I went at Christmas time and bought the most amazing, richly aromatic coffee. Nothing in Sainsbury's has come close! Check out Gandharva Loka while you're there, it's a weird and wonderful musical instrument shop that doesn't sell your run of the mill guitars or keyboards - rather; gongs, chimes, singing bowls, 'sound cradles' (essentially a chair/harp hybrid) and 'tongue drums'.
5. Wobble across the Capilano Suspension Bridge
If you're airline crew this is free (including the bus that takes you there, you just turn up at the bus stop at Canada Place and hop on). It sways in the breeze, gently swinging as you step on it - quite a heart stopping experience as you realize you're a dizzying 70 metres above the Capilano River running below. There are many smaller bridges connecting together around the park, and a death-defying 'cliff walk' - with a perspex floor, the only way to look is down...
6. Ski on Grouse Mountain
Now I'm not much of an avid skiier, but Grouse Mountain is practically down the road (and much cheaper than Whistler). There are baby slopes for rookies like me, and while you're climbing up on the ski lift the panoramas are breathtaking. If you're lucky you might see a bear or two in the distance...
7. Take a sea-plane ride to Victoria
For anyone who loves aviation, this is a must. You'll enjoy a scenic route over to Victoria (the lush green capital of British Columbia), and land on the water in a graceful, gliding motion like a swan - it's quite something. Unfortunately sea-plane tickets can be quite expensive, however if you turn up last minute you can get discounted seats on flights already booked by full-fare paying customers - especially if you're crew. The terminal is located at Vancouver Harbour.
8. Explore historical Gastown
Gastown is a National Historic Site of Canada, the rather flamboyant district named after 'Gassy' Jack Deighton - a Yorkshire seaman who opened the first saloon here in 1867. Here you'll find art galleries, crazy fashion boutiques and the usual tourist souvenir shops (I come here to buy moose magnets!). There's a lovely little maple syrup shop where you can sample before you buy (I believe it's called 'Canadian Maple Delights'). Don't forget to check out the famous steam powered clock (pictured below, but it's difficult to see the steam).
While you're in the area, take a short walk towards Downtown and pop in for a gelato at Bella Gelateria - award-winning ice cream with some deliciously interesting combinations (chocolate with bacon pieces, anyone?)
9. Shop on Robson Street
On a Saturday afternoon Robson Street is a bustling thoroughfare of the well-heeled Vancouverites. Of course I'm loathe to browsing the designer shops, pretending I could afford it all - don't we all - but there are a number of interesting fashion boutiques and affordable high-street chains. However, my favourite thing to do is to sit on a cafe terrace, order a cappuccino and watch the world go by.
10. Watch a Canucks game
I'd say this is the ultimate Canadian experience - although, alas, one I haven't had quite yet. As its national sport, watching a fast-paced, emotionally fuelled game of ice-hockey in Canada is bound to be exciting. The Vancouver Canucks' home rink is Rogers Arena, where ticket prices can range from $65-$300. Definitely planning this for my next trip...watch this space!
1. Cycle around Stanley Park
On a sunny day its a perfect way to spend the afternoon. There's a designated cycle path running around the seawall with some gorgeous vistas of Grouse Mountain and Mount Seymour. It'll take you under the iconic Lions Gate Bridge (below).
It's an easy ride on flat terrain and will only take you a couple of hours. You'll see entire families out cycling (Canadians love the outdoors).
Stop and have an ice cream and a sunbathe on English Bay Beach before hopping back on your bike.
2. Visit the Vancouver Aquarium
Watch the dolphins show off their routines, seal lions lazily stretching out on the rocks and penguins pottering about. There's lots of deep-sea marine life viewing and an excellent 4D film narrated by David Attenborough about the life of wild salmon that tickles all five senses (you do get wet...) Best of all, if you're crew it's free - they simply ask you for an optional donation of a loony or a toony (that's one or two Canadian dollars).
3. Savour fresh British Columbian salmon
Although most supermarkets supply excellent quality salmon nowadays, there's simply nothing like freshly caught fish. For any salmon aficionado, this is the creme de la creme. I highly recommend the Sand Bar on Granville Island (I had the spring salmon with rice and seasonal vegetables). Pair with a Gehringer Brothers Pinot Noir (also local - from a vineyard in Okanagan) for a truly Canadian dining experience.
4. Browse the Granville Island market
This market is huge, selling fresh produce, arts and crafts - you name it, they'll have it. I went at Christmas time and bought the most amazing, richly aromatic coffee. Nothing in Sainsbury's has come close! Check out Gandharva Loka while you're there, it's a weird and wonderful musical instrument shop that doesn't sell your run of the mill guitars or keyboards - rather; gongs, chimes, singing bowls, 'sound cradles' (essentially a chair/harp hybrid) and 'tongue drums'.
5. Wobble across the Capilano Suspension Bridge
If you're airline crew this is free (including the bus that takes you there, you just turn up at the bus stop at Canada Place and hop on). It sways in the breeze, gently swinging as you step on it - quite a heart stopping experience as you realize you're a dizzying 70 metres above the Capilano River running below. There are many smaller bridges connecting together around the park, and a death-defying 'cliff walk' - with a perspex floor, the only way to look is down...
6. Ski on Grouse Mountain
Now I'm not much of an avid skiier, but Grouse Mountain is practically down the road (and much cheaper than Whistler). There are baby slopes for rookies like me, and while you're climbing up on the ski lift the panoramas are breathtaking. If you're lucky you might see a bear or two in the distance...
7. Take a sea-plane ride to Victoria
For anyone who loves aviation, this is a must. You'll enjoy a scenic route over to Victoria (the lush green capital of British Columbia), and land on the water in a graceful, gliding motion like a swan - it's quite something. Unfortunately sea-plane tickets can be quite expensive, however if you turn up last minute you can get discounted seats on flights already booked by full-fare paying customers - especially if you're crew. The terminal is located at Vancouver Harbour.
8. Explore historical Gastown
Gastown is a National Historic Site of Canada, the rather flamboyant district named after 'Gassy' Jack Deighton - a Yorkshire seaman who opened the first saloon here in 1867. Here you'll find art galleries, crazy fashion boutiques and the usual tourist souvenir shops (I come here to buy moose magnets!). There's a lovely little maple syrup shop where you can sample before you buy (I believe it's called 'Canadian Maple Delights'). Don't forget to check out the famous steam powered clock (pictured below, but it's difficult to see the steam).
While you're in the area, take a short walk towards Downtown and pop in for a gelato at Bella Gelateria - award-winning ice cream with some deliciously interesting combinations (chocolate with bacon pieces, anyone?)
9. Shop on Robson Street
On a Saturday afternoon Robson Street is a bustling thoroughfare of the well-heeled Vancouverites. Of course I'm loathe to browsing the designer shops, pretending I could afford it all - don't we all - but there are a number of interesting fashion boutiques and affordable high-street chains. However, my favourite thing to do is to sit on a cafe terrace, order a cappuccino and watch the world go by.
10. Watch a Canucks game
I'd say this is the ultimate Canadian experience - although, alas, one I haven't had quite yet. As its national sport, watching a fast-paced, emotionally fuelled game of ice-hockey in Canada is bound to be exciting. The Vancouver Canucks' home rink is Rogers Arena, where ticket prices can range from $65-$300. Definitely planning this for my next trip...watch this space!
Friday 12 April 2013
springtime in Lisbon
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| Buying strawberries and cherries from a street vendor. |
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| Terracotta roofs as seen from the Elevador Santa Justa (a strange, Victorian era urban lift). |
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| Enjoying a coffee and a 'pastel de nata' - egg custard tarts Portuguese style! |
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| The imposing Rossio Railway Station |
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| A crumbling shop front that would look rather sorry for itself in Britain evokes a sense of nostalgia here. |
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| Note the mosaic street - a little detail that makes this place so enchanting. |
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| The River Tagus |
Wednesday 6 February 2013
Venice Beach
Thought I'd write a little about a recent stop at Venice Beach. It's worth a visit if you're in the vicinity - but try to avoid the 'tourist' times, i.e. June to August. Parking nearby is relatively cheap, $10 for a few hours if I recall.
The beach itself is picturesque. A huge expanse of soft, yellow sand leads to gently breaking waves on the azure horizon. Nevertheless, contrary to what I expected it was rather quiet even though the day was hot. I assume on weekends it becomes busy, but it seems as if tourists are more interested in the boardwalk than the beach.
The Venice Beach boardwalk is where the oddballs come to convene; a smorgasbord of hippies, artists, street performers, surfers and tourists. Street artists display caricatures and henna tattoos. Shabby shops sell everything from flip flops and sunglasses to drug paraphernalia and funny (and some offensive!) T-shirts. A rastafarian man rollerblades along whilst shredding rapidly on a portable electric guitar in a Bob Marley-esque fashion. A dog lies on its back in the sun, writhing in dollar bills like a girl in a rap video, flanked by jokey signs for 'Free Belly Rubs' and requesting tips...
It's sheer madness all the way, but it's a sight to see. There's a sense of acceptance here, no matter how strange you are - in fact the stranger the better. Individuality seems to be the order of the day. You'll pass the famed outside weights gym, 'Muscle Beach' - although when I took a cheeky look I was disappointed to find no tanned young things pumping iron...more, leathery granddads...
It's not somewhere I'd spend an entire afternoon, as once you've marvelled at the bizarre world that is the Venice Beach promenade you realise after walking a mile or so, that it's the same old stuff. Nevertheless I'd stay for the lovely beach.
Friday 1 February 2013
a chic traveller's best friend
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| Photo credit to http://royalshake.deviantart.com |
Here's something I noticed on my recent trip to Paris - the It-Bag, if you like, isn't the Chanel 2.55. Modern Parisiennes are practical women that never compromise style, and the favoured handbag that caters to both pragmatism and aesthetic quality is the Longchamp 'Le Pliage', which I saw dangling off many a lithe arm or tucked under a bistro table. Key to the bag's popularity is that it is foldable. Longchamp are definitely onto something - it's a sturdy yet spacious tote bag that when folded takes up as much space as a clutch! They are available in a variety of sizes, colours and materials (I have olive green, navy, brown and white). Simply perfect for taking on short trips when you only want to take a dinky carry-on bag and maximising space is key, they are my saving grace on European stopovers. No wonder the ladies of Paris are going gaga for practical chic.
View the current crop of Longchamp 'Le Pliage' bags here.
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